Maserati Mistral Service Pt.1

The Maserati Mistral 3700 GT is one of the finest GT machines produced in the 1960s, right along with Maserati’s 3500GT and Sebring. They all share the AM101 inline-six, ZF gearboxes, and Salisbury rear axles, beneath coachwork from Touring, Michelotti, or Frua. This 1965 Mistral has been with the same owner since the 1970s, and it remains largely unrestored – albeit with a so-so repaint and re-dyed (yellow) interior. It had been off the road for over a decade until recently when the owner delivered the car off at a little British repair shop, owned by a friend and confidant. The owner’s budget was limited, so we were asked to get every ready for a season on the backroads while leaving the cosmetics alone. 

I really enjoy Pietro Frua’s design, but I recognize why it is polarizing.

This car originally had Lucas mechanical fuel injection. That system was swapped out for a trio of Weber DCOEs in the 1970s. Here we are finding the actual Top Dead Center with a dial indicator – there are no timing marks on the crank pulley or flywheel. It is a little crusty under the hood. But, after a valve adjustment, the compression came back up to within specification.

Getting Magneti-Marelli distributor torn down for some cleaning.

Typically, service to a multi-point Magneti distributor should be done on a distributor machine. I’m working at a friend’s shop – we didn’t have one on hand – so, here is the workbench approach! The Mistral’s AM101 engine utilizes two plugs per cylinder and a single distributor. It is critical to phase the points properly while setting the gap, this applies to any dual-point distributor, like the one commonly found on Ferraris. The Mistral manual specifies a .5 to 1-degree gap between the two circuits – this slight delay does make the engine perceptibly smoother at idle. The “cheater workbench Syncrograph” method shown above involves marking out 1 degree of rotation on the distributor, followed by setting the point gap, adjusting the contact to the cam, and using a pair of multimeters (buzzer enabled) to sequence the opening and closing of the points together. 

Fulvia 1,3S Rehab Pt.1

This 1970 Fulvia 1,3S arrived in September 2019 with a “rough running” condition. The owner was new to classic car ownership at the time and could provide little insight into what was going wrong. Months prior to the car’s arrival, it was parked outside at a local gas station for an extended period of time – this did not help matters. 

A lovely blue on this Fulvia. Unfortunately, it was looking weathered with rust coming through in various areas.
It quickly became apparent that the engine had been badly overheated. After removing the head, it became apparent that the engine had to come out. Here it is coming apart on the workbench.
3 of the 4 cylinder shows heavy scoring. Sorry for the blood drop on that upper compression ring – no guts, no glory.
Ouch.

Maserati Mistral Fuel System

The Mistral originally came equipped with a Lucas PI system. However, this car was converted to a trio of DCOE Webers in the 1970s. Whoever installed the carburetors did a pretty good job dialing them in – the same can’t be said for their modifications to the fuel lines, filters, and pump. 

The existing fuel line was an absolute fire hazard. It was comprised of plumbing copper, hardware store T-fittings, and soft solder. We fabricated a new setup with nickel-copper line, steel banjo fittings, and a modified 4-way junction (adapted from a Porsche 356 – shh!). Instead of soft solder – which is weak and susceptible to fatigue from vibration, we silver soldered all joints and fittings.

No plastic fuel filters. The Malpassi Filter King is the only choice. 

A custom bracket to secure the filter/regulator to the frame next to a new Facet pump. 

When it comes to cleaning out old fuel tanks there are few options. I prefer to use a local furniture restoration shop. They have a heated tank full of caustic chemicals designed to remove old paint and stain, which also does a good job at removing old fuel and gunk. Their stripper also leaves the base metal and factory galvanized coating largely untouched. The Mistral has two tanks behind each wheel well, so we cleaned out both tanks and resealed them with a two-part ethanol safe coating, and reinstalled them with a new crossover hose. 

CEAM Ignition Switch Rehab

A little side project for my personal car. The CEAM push-to-start ignition switch was missing from my Lancia Flavia and I have been fortunate enough to acquire a parts car with a matching set of locks. So I set off rebuilding the ignition switch. 

The original lock ring had been badly chewed up with a pair of channel locks. So we placed it in the lathe and re-knurled it. 

A quick and dirty expanding collet to hold bronze retaining ring without damaging the threads. 

By using a live center in the tailstock, we can apply pressure to the expanding collet. 

Ready to be sent out for chrome plating. 

Lancia Fulvia S2 Body Repairs

Before being shipped to us, this Lancia Fulvia spent time stored outdoors at another workshop. Believe it or not, the paintwork looked presentable prior to this episode of outdoor storage. But, a year outside on the East Coast revealed lots of poor preparation work, and areas of rust, which spread quickly.

The owner’s budget wasn’t large enough for a full tear-down and subsequent restoration. So, we elected to strip 85% of the exterior and refinish the body, jambs, and engine bay.

Not so pretty. Pre-existing repairs around the body left a lot to be desired and were buried beneath copious amounts of body filler.

Well, rust is always deeper than anyone assumes. We are now repairing the wheel wells, inner rockers, and outer rocker panel before even considering reinstallation of the fender.

New lower sections for each front fender were made in house.

Finalizing the fit. The entire fender will come back off, so the new lower section can be welded and metal-finished from each side. From there, the freshly repaired fender is welded back on.

Putting the puzzle pieces back together.

Hand files and (occasionally) a body dolly to raise the area are the preferred method for knocking down welds.

Getting there.

The factory used lead for the seam between the rocker panel and fender – so we did the same.

Etch primer and a few coats of urethane.

Moving around the body, we continued to find sub-par repairs. So, most of the exterior is being brought to bare metal.

Fast-forwarding a few steps, we’re moving right along with the application of primer, which is followed by blocksanding and more primer.

Color, final sanding, and reassembly to follow.