Camshaft bearings, camshaft, and main bearing studs going in.
Some Country cast pistons with 4 rings as original. These are .020″ oversize and have all be balanced to match their corresponding rods.
Tappjng in some new freeze plugs.
Ok, the provided instructions don’t tell you to install the RMS modification with this method, likely for the reason that most installers don’t have a lathe to make an alignment fixture. We like to make a stepped alignment tool, that clamps into the main bearing cap and stepped outer diameter to match the provided updated seal holder.
Radial oil seals to be pretty much perfectly centered, or they will likely develop a leak.
Once aligned and the mounting holes are transferred, we can drill and tap the block.
The last part of the seal conversion involves clearancing the rear engine plate. This is more of an art than a science, being that it does not need to be absolutely precise.
Flatter than your normal Healey oil pan. We spent some to remove any damage and reweld the baffles.
All painted up.
Here is the actual valve cover we’ll be using on this engine. Considering it needs to be removed periodically, it is best to paint them separately.
We are fortunate enough to have most of the original hardware on this engine. So, we media blasted it, chased the threads as needed, and re-plated it.