More Lancia Fulvia 5-speed gearbox repairs underway… This one was sent in from out of state, after the owner reported noisy operation at-speed.
Splitting the differential. Upon disassembly it became apparent the problem was in the ring and pinion, and the noise was likely alway present, it was just very audible at highway speeds. Lots of metal shavings and contaminated oil was present inside the case.
Lancia’s Technical Data sheets are a lovely aids! They are available online. However, if you have trouble finding them – send me an email. Final drive clearance is supposed to be scribed on the ring and pinion from the factory, and can be deciphered with the page above.
New ring gear going on for the first of many test fits to make sure the ring to pinion clearance is correct.
Ready to be reunited with its case halve. In addition to the ring and pinion, this gearbox received new bearings for the primary and intermediate gear stacks, and differential. It should be nice and quiet after this.
Exhibit A – A completely clogged accelerator pump. The Solex C35’s accelerator pump is the lowest point on the carburetor, just like a Weber DCOE, and it therefore acts a collection tank for rust and debris that find their way into the float bowls.
We tore these carburetors down and placed them in the sonic cleaner for an hour or so with a very mild cleaning solution. This car is a driver. We then installed a rebuild kit with all new accelerator pump components, gaskets, o-rings, and more.
The real culprit. This fuel tank had likely never been out of the car. And, after getting it back from the acid dipper, we tried a number of methods to clear out any remaining rust or debri without success. Ultimately, an access hole had to be made in order to remove the clogged fuel return line.
After desoldering the old line and removing it through the aforementioned access hole, we bent up a new line, and reinstalled with a small sheetmetal bracket to keep it place. The access hole was TIG-welded shut, and an ethanol-safe coating was applied to the tank.
Welded back up, epoxy-primed, and painted flat-black on the outside.
This is the bronze fuel tank collar found on S1 and S2 Fulvias. The S3 cars received a plastic locknut (blame Fiat) and it is only a matter of time before it needs to be replaced, if it hasn’t already. These bronze ones are readily available.
In order to change the locknut, the gas cap retaining flange will need to be removed and re-soldered back on.
Nice new fuel drain plugs are available in two different thread pitches, they also double as the fuel pickup filter. The original mesh is typically damage or clogged with years of gunk.
Rarely does one find an original Austin-Healey BJ8 dash in usable condition with most of its original burled walnut veneer, or at least I like to imagine. This one was brought in by a local customer, who is restoring the car himself. It had a few problematic areas, which were resolved with some pieces of veneer from a donor dash panel blended in, and then received approximately 6 coats of urethane clearcoat. There was plenty of sanding between applications, and even more buffing and polishing after the final coat.
As we wrap up the engine work on the Series 1 E-Type project in the shop, we began to clean up a few details at the customer request.
The heater assembly was inoperable and looking a bit tired. Subsequently, we tore it all apart, media-blasted the housing, and powdercoated it before install a new motor, fan, screen, and Negative Earth badge.
New oversize wheels from MWS
Repaired and refinished subframes were installed, followed by much more!
Over the past few months we’ve been performing a bare metal repaint on this BMW Isetta. We took the job over from another restorer, and asked to work with some of the existing metal repairs, while making a few necessary ones of our own.
Sanded and de-rusted. The engine cover on this body fit quite poorly, and we remade two sides of the perimeter.
Priming and sanding. Priming and sanding
Healey 100 meets Isetta.
Azur Blue and Ivory laid down right here.
Late in the restoration, the owner asked us to fit this Isetta with a “tropical door.” An option offered by BMW for Isetta’s sold in warmer climates and distinguished by the two oval openings, which draw additional fresh air into a two-way vent inside, and ultimately the cabin. We’re still working on repairs to the frame work and lower skin.
We recently took on a Jaguar E-Type with a problematic head gasket, experiencing normal faulty head gasket symptoms – white smoke and an over-pressurized cooling system. Overall, the car wears an older restoration, and comes equipped with a number of modifications, including power from a later-model XK engine punched out to 4.5-liters with forged pistons, hotter cams, and more.
Upon disassembly, it became apparent some questionable repairs were undertaken at some point in the past. Note the threaded insert.
So… earlier Jaguar engines utilized shorter head studs. Beginning with the 4.2-liter engines, longer studs were added, and threaded into the (stronger) base of the cooling jacket, while the shorter studs remained on the four front and rearmost studs. The problem with these long stud engines begins when corrosion in the cooling system occurs, which is almost inevitable in any older vehicle. This particular XK block had two broken studs, that had rusted to such a point, they lost their integrity. The engine builder’s fix, was to leave the remnants in the block, and add two shorter studs to the deck. Not a kosher fix, in my opinion.
Conveniently, Jaguar placed. a freeze plug at the base of each stud. Through this hole, we were able to file/grind the old stud flat and center punch it for drilling. The drill bits for this application are 12″ long, and we use a specially made drill guide (not pictured) to keep the drilling perpendicular.
All drilled out.
Extended Heli-Coil tapping and insertion tools are unavailable. So we make them.
Going in.
And, the new Heli-Coil.
All new ARP studs installed.
It turns out the heater block plug for later XK engines utilizes a British Leyland thread, and a suitable replacement is unavailable. We ended up making one out of chunk a of 6061 aluminum.
The modified head was resurfaced and received six new exhaust valves before reassembly.
Valve clearances were set on the work bench. So the head is ready to be torqued down before we double check the cam timing.
We also made a few changes to the Weber induction system, including a new fuel line with braided German hose and T-fitting borrowed from an Alfa 2600, as well as redesigned throttle return springs. More to follow on this project.
We recently encountered a Lancia Fulvia that left the owner stranded after refusing to shift into any gear, whatsoever. The culprit was a seized pilot bearing. Which, as it turns out makes separating the gearbox from the engine – no easy feat. Removal involved sliding the gearbox back approximately 1/2″ to gain access to the bolts securing the pressure plate to the flywheel. From there, with a little brute force, we were able to pull the pilot bearing through the sheetmetal lock ring/retainer on the flywheel.
Ideally, you should never have to remove a clutch disc, pilot bearing, and pressure plate as one assembly. The pilot bearing, in this instance, welded its self onto the main transmission shaft.
The inner section of the lock ring keeps the pilot bearing in the flywheel, and the flared edge on the center hole should not be there.
The original flywheel was cleaned up and resurfaced before being reinstalled with a new clutch assembly, pilot and throwout bearings, and a lock plate. We’re glad to the report the car shifted lovely after this service.
A single-family-owned Rover made a trip down from Cape Cod earlier this summer, where it has been a faithful beach cruiser for many decades. The owner’s were tasked with refreshing the mechanicals, and asked me for an assist with metal and paint.
Corrosion has taken a toll on parts of the body. So, we started by re-skinning the barn door.
A new rear threshold was required, along with some patches on each rear body panel, followed by some light filler work.
We capped all of this off with a new rear bumper, and then this rig was back to Cape Cod for many more summers.
The opportunity to wrap up painting a set of panels and components for a Porsche project we are building presented itself this past week. The painting credit goes to Joel at High Tech Autobody. While, the panels were 85% ready for color – the last 15% required a few more days of preparation.
The first two coats of color. Expertly laid down by Joel, who’s been laying down metallic paints for over 20 years.
Ultimately, we settled on 5 coats of color. With plenty of 1000 grit sanding and scuffing performed in between coats.
